moonstone
Tyre Kicker
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Audi, Mercedes, Porsche, BMW Forum
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Retrofit Hold Assist Audi TT (8S)
- Thread starter moonstone
- Start date
Where?
moonstone
Tyre Kicker
Great hear Brewski! Can you fill us in on what the problem was and how you fixed it? Should come in handy for others doing the same thing without the KUFATEC dongle.
Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
Newbi here so looking for some help on the matter of retro fitting auto hold button and KUFATEC cable kit to a 2017 roadster . I have fitted both switch and cable and when I goto the coding using ODB11 with the app setting to one click the auto hold coding it tells me to check ignition . The car is running and seat belt clicked In and no errors are showing , I have checked the wiring at the mmi unit and all is well there . Being a 2017 TT I didn’t have to use third wire to. Fused power as this had a cable in pin 10, pins 9 and 11 are correct . I need to double check wiring at the abs unit next ad I did struggle with those grey inserts . I believe the wiring pins 32 and 23 are in the correct way but they might have pushed out as I couldn’t get a positive click when pushing them in, would I be correct in thinking that if these had pushed out when clicking the wiring harness in place would result in no coding via ODB11. Saying check ignition. I have read also the KUFATEC instructions are pretty weak and being shown a left hand drive wasn’t easy on figuring out how to get wires through , nearly took the car apart lol. I’m using odb11 pro and have seen the app based coding and I’d like to just click the button as I have credits to use. But if someone could help on coding given my wiring issues I would be very happy boy.
steve
steve
Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
Update
I have long coded the auto hold as suggested in this post and now see on the dash auto hold unavailable. With two warning symbols on the dash. Do I have to shut car off leave car and lock and come back 10 min or so to allow it to reset , I’m at that stage now which some of you guys have had experience with. Fingers crossed as I’m at a loss after this if it don’t work
I have long coded the auto hold as suggested in this post and now see on the dash auto hold unavailable. With two warning symbols on the dash. Do I have to shut car off leave car and lock and come back 10 min or so to allow it to reset , I’m at that stage now which some of you guys have had experience with. Fingers crossed as I’m at a loss after this if it don’t work
moonstone
Tyre Kicker
Check your connections. They’re either not right or not fully engaged.
Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
Have checked over wiring and all is correct and snug fitted in abs module , Would I be thinking this coding is different for a manual gear box . As I have been following the guide which I believe is for a DSG box here which I think one of the coding lines is set for a auto
Cheers
moonstone
Tyre Kicker
Not sure. I’ve never looked into that. All I know is that everyone who’s ever had any issue, it’s always been down to the wiring. Including myself when I did it.
Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
question about Security access codes
Two that work for me are 20103 which I use and 01138. I can code the car with the above bytes 15 ,16,25,26 all fine and then the warning lights come on in dash saying auto hold unavailable . I reset the ignition go into the app to remove the fault which is open circuit on lamp on the button, this lead me to believe it was a wiring issue which I will take another look today . It won’t allow me to clear the fault as I have seen other vids on YouTube saying it’s normal for this to happen after coding and will require it to be cleared before working correctly . Do you know if the app based coding on odb11 for auto hold function require security access codes. As it’s meant to be a one click option
Two that work for me are 20103 which I use and 01138. I can code the car with the above bytes 15 ,16,25,26 all fine and then the warning lights come on in dash saying auto hold unavailable . I reset the ignition go into the app to remove the fault which is open circuit on lamp on the button, this lead me to believe it was a wiring issue which I will take another look today . It won’t allow me to clear the fault as I have seen other vids on YouTube saying it’s normal for this to happen after coding and will require it to be cleared before working correctly . Do you know if the app based coding on odb11 for auto hold function require security access codes. As it’s meant to be a one click option
moonstone
Tyre Kicker
The fault you describe is definitely a wiring issue. You’re getting this fault because the car has been successfully coded and is now reporting a wiring fault. If your coding had been unsuccessful then you wouldnt have a fault at all (as the car wouldn’t be looking for hold assist).
This is exactly the same issue I had and it turned out that I had one of the pins in the ABS connector I’m the wrong slot.
Also the grey plugs in the connector have a habit of breaking in half. Half you ensured that there’s nothing left in those slots that mate be stopping the wiring connection from happening?
I wasn’t aware that there was a one-click app for hold assist. In terms of coding, you’ll know if it fails because it’ll tell you. Based on everything you’re saying I’d be amazed if it wasn’t a wiring issue.
Oh and to answer your earlier question that I missed the first time around. OBDeleven will let you code pretty much anything regardless if it’s present on the car or not so how it behaves has nothing to do with whether or not your physical install has been successful.
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Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
Thanks for taking time to reply to me
Unfortunately I have not been able to code this with ODB11. So maybe finding someone local to Chuck VCDS on it might help here. I have done all the hard work with physical install and i double checked locations of pin 32 and 23 I’m abs connector and all is well , so difficult getting that connector out and with it being pretty short difficult to work on. Think I will need a new top locking mech now as it’s well seated and when trying to unlock it the bottom out of the lock lets loose so won’t pull the harness out it’s seat. Can’t think of the term of what the connector is called as I only need the top removable part . I won’t take a risk in trying to remove it in its current state so I have slipped the red lock tab back in and I’m hoping it a coding issue. Does anyone have VCDS close by to Cheshire Neston. 🤔
moonstone
Tyre Kicker
I have to admit, I'm a bit confused about your situation as you've said that you've not been able to code it, but from what you've described, you have coded it, or else you won't get the "hold assist unavailable error".
I don't have access to VCDS currently (though I've owned it in the past) and I coded mine with OBDeleven so there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to.
If you can give a clear break down of the problem you're having I may be able to help, but based on what you've written so far, I'm struggling to understand exactly where you are with the coding aspect.
I don't have access to VCDS currently (though I've owned it in the past) and I coded mine with OBDeleven so there's no reason why you shouldn't be able to.
If you can give a clear break down of the problem you're having I may be able to help, but based on what you've written so far, I'm struggling to understand exactly where you are with the coding aspect.
Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
Thanks for trying to help.
pulling my hair out on it now. Lol
Anyhow so I have a clear picture of coding
so I go into long coding and type 15 in the byte and it displays the bits which a number of them are checked. I can see bit 3 unchecked so I check that off and move onto byte 16 doing the same by adding bit 7. Then to byte 25 adding bit 4 and lastly byte 26 adding bit 0. Finally completing the coding . At this point the dash comes up with auto hold function not available even though I have done the auto hold activate in adaptation. I see another member was confused about coding with the bytes and bits and something to do hex . Am I following the coding correct or am I missing something out
pulling my hair out on it now. Lol
Anyhow so I have a clear picture of coding
so I go into long coding and type 15 in the byte and it displays the bits which a number of them are checked. I can see bit 3 unchecked so I check that off and move onto byte 16 doing the same by adding bit 7. Then to byte 25 adding bit 4 and lastly byte 26 adding bit 0. Finally completing the coding . At this point the dash comes up with auto hold function not available even though I have done the auto hold activate in adaptation. I see another member was confused about coding with the bytes and bits and something to do hex . Am I following the coding correct or am I missing something out
moonstone
Tyre Kicker
Ok. So what you're doing sounds correct. If the coding failed in OBDeleven then either you would get a message on the app saying "coding not accepted" or your bit & bytes would have reverted back to original when you went back into check after changing them.
The Kufatec dongle that came with mine only changed two bytes when I checked it afterwards with OBDeleven.
The reason why I'm saying its a wiring issue, rather than a coding issue is because of what's coming up on the dash. You've now told the car that it has Autohold. So now, the car is including Auto-hold in its function list, is seeing that there's a problem with it and is displaying the error. If your coding hadn't worked, you wouldn't get the error on the dash.
Forget get about Hex. Hex is just an alphanumberic number made up of bytes and another way to describe long coding.
In a previous post your wrote:
"I reset the ignition go into the app to remove the fault which is open circuit on lamp on the button, this lead me to believe it was a wiring issue which I will take another look today . It won’t allow me to clear the fault as I have seen other vids on YouTube saying it’s normal for this to happen after coding and will require it to be cleared before working correctly . "
Open circuit on the lamp means that the wiring from the lamp to the ABS connector is incorrect. Clearing the error wont fix it and it's NOT normal for this to happen after coding.
So everything points to this being a wiring issue rather than a coding issue. Two of us had the same symptoms as you and it was a wiring problem. I was also convinced it must be coding until I eventually realised I had one of the wires in the wrong pin on the ABS connector. Before that, on my first attempt, it turned out that part of the grey plug in the pin location was still wedged in the slot and was stopping the new pin from connecting.
We really need photos of your connections to help you further.
The Kufatec dongle that came with mine only changed two bytes when I checked it afterwards with OBDeleven.
The reason why I'm saying its a wiring issue, rather than a coding issue is because of what's coming up on the dash. You've now told the car that it has Autohold. So now, the car is including Auto-hold in its function list, is seeing that there's a problem with it and is displaying the error. If your coding hadn't worked, you wouldn't get the error on the dash.
Forget get about Hex. Hex is just an alphanumberic number made up of bytes and another way to describe long coding.
In a previous post your wrote:
"I reset the ignition go into the app to remove the fault which is open circuit on lamp on the button, this lead me to believe it was a wiring issue which I will take another look today . It won’t allow me to clear the fault as I have seen other vids on YouTube saying it’s normal for this to happen after coding and will require it to be cleared before working correctly . "
Open circuit on the lamp means that the wiring from the lamp to the ABS connector is incorrect. Clearing the error wont fix it and it's NOT normal for this to happen after coding.
So everything points to this being a wiring issue rather than a coding issue. Two of us had the same symptoms as you and it was a wiring problem. I was also convinced it must be coding until I eventually realised I had one of the wires in the wrong pin on the ABS connector. Before that, on my first attempt, it turned out that part of the grey plug in the pin location was still wedged in the slot and was stopping the new pin from connecting.
We really need photos of your connections to help you further.
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Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
I’d agree with the grey pin issue. I had an issue getting mine out so maybe there is a bit in one or both ports 32,23. I’d have to get the connector off again but I think I’ll struggle with that now til
Stephen555
Tyre Kicker
I get a new locking mech.